Cape Taineron is supposedly where Hades keeps the front door unlocked, and by the time we got there, I was inclined to believe it. The wind went from sporty to stupid in a hurry. Twenty knots, then twenty-five, then thirty-five, with seas big enough to make Madonna feel humble.
We went looking for a hole to hide in and found one that looked good on paper. The cruising guide even showed a big cave, labeled in cheerful ink as the Gates of Hades. Comforting, right? This is where the Ionian...
