Ua-Pou. Say it slow and it tastes like salt and history. It’s only about 26 miles from Nuku Hiva, but it might as well be a century and a lifetime away. Five jagged spires claw up into the clouds like the bones of some old god, and one of them never quite lets go of its misty blanket. The whole island is small, green, and wild in that untouched, don’t-even-think-about-it way. Half the size of Catalina Island, but it feels ten times bigger once you step into it.
We dropped the hook...