Some years ago, we were passing between Coll and Tiree into a gap called the Gunna Sound which on a good day is about 200m wide. These are two small Inner Hebridean islands situated roughly 20 miles West of the isle of Mull. Our boat ‘Somerled’ was coming back from the Outer Hebrides having spent a couple of days exploring several wee islands south of Barra. We’d all been enjoyed some amazing Scottish cruising. Probably understanding this area is one of the most beautiful places in Western Europe.
We’d spent a night on Mingulay enjoying a barbie ashore, looking at the abandoned settlements. Speculating how people could survive on such small islands during winter. The island was abandoned in 1912 after plague.
Our sail back was quite long, (approx. 80 nm.). The forecast suggested it could become quite windy from the west later that day. Our strong friendly group (named the ‘the BG’s) had enjoyed a marvellous week.
Colin Blane at that time one of Scotland’s BBC top reporters was our skipper that day. I’d nominated Chris (CJ) Gardiner to navigate during this passage. CJ was an ex-BA long haul pilot; who’d started off flying RAF Vulcan’s as Briton’s nuclear deterrent during the cold war. Some of his amazing tales from those days brought many of us to tears; they were almost beyond believe. They both seemed to blend and worked together well. As we approached this tiny gap between these islands after some 50 miles offshore.
CJ who’d been doing his homework with navigation. Suggested to me that by the time we’d arrive at the sound; tide would have turned west and started running strong against this wind. He mentioned that the pilot books said ‘that there could be quite bad ‘overfalls’ in this tiny gap; especially on Spring Tides (which currently we had). Stupidly I’d ignored his briefing, and we pressed on ahead.
We made a fine landfall then saw this narrow entrance. The wind had strengthened to West F5/6; it began blow harder; funnelling more closer to the gap. Spotting large standing waves (overfalls!). Unfortunately, by now it was too late for us; except to go through it.
CJ said, “I do remember the conversation about the overfalls. Being told not to be such a wuss and the maps always exaggerated the problems”. It was an exhilarating ride, and I remember you shouting to the helm John “the only way to survive was to go faster”.
Colin had taken over the helm. He did a remarkable job surfing us down several large waves without gybging the boat. We were still carrying a whole mainsail. Our terrifying ride possibly only lasted ten minutes; but it was hairy. The boat became a large-scale surfboard.
One crew member felt these waves were higher than our mast. This was less than convincing; when he claimed he had seen a basking shark above him. Though this sound is a favourite haunt for the basking sharks as the water passing through provides concentrated food. Once right into the sound, all was quiet. It had been a bad misjudgement by Moi!
CJ continued to navigate us NE round the rocks in the lee of Coll. After arriving our harbour, we turned fully into the wind. Everyone onboard had realised that it was blowing a good force seven. We picked our way upwind into a crowded anchorage and dropped our hook. ‘Somerled’ had achieved another extremely fast 12-hour passage.
CJ who’d managed to stay reasonably dry as navigator. Yelled from below “perhaps a Gin & Tonic would solve any of you woos”. We all trooped down completely sodden having stowed up. Collectively each of us took a big sip of CJ’s drink; slowly realising that it hit quite well. With a one litre bottle of gin with just six tots; Mr. Gardiner had used almost the whole damn bottle! We all tend to doubt whether any other G & T’s have ever gone down better…
Jennifer King and George Dunwoody sensibly started to organise a hot meal. They’d both brought aboard a fine selection of wines to accompany our cruise. Yet another fast BG passage was put to bed; but we’d certainly ridden our luck. It could have gone horribly wrong; but those Norse God’s of wind and waves had luckily been on our side.
N.B. CJ immediately rowed ashore the next morning at Aringour to buy more gin, lemon, tonic and ice from the tiny local shop. John McKercher went with him in search of a cabbage for his signature meal of Lobscouse (yet another yarn!). We all heard the clinking of bottles and ice; plus, one large cabbage before they appeared…
